Tanks+For+Teachers+Project

= Welcome to the TFT Info Page = = = This is the PNWMAS tanks for teachers info page. This pages is designed to help you set up your classroom marine aquarium. We want to make sure you have all the materials and help to get you started.

This page covers the following:
 * Why you might want a marine tank in the Classroom
 * How to get a tank from PNWMAS
 * How to get your tank set up.
 * Setting up a maintenance schedule.
 * Starting your tank records page on tanks for teachers.

How to get a tank from PNWMAS. The following application is designed to share the info about how you will use your TFT tank in the classrooom. The requirements are also listed on the application. Fill it out and submit the application to the PNWMAS BOARD. They will review it and let you know if you have been awarded the tank. Contact the Board members at PNWMAS.org.

Objective: It's purpose is to inform teachers of the basic procedures for setting up a reef tank in a classroom.

The following is the description of a low-cost 30 gallon nano reef which can be easily set up and successfully maintained by just about anyone. There are many other ways, of course, to set up a similar tank, and I do not claim that this way is the "best". It does, however, offer the advantages of being both cheap and simple. Further, if the simple maintenance described herein is followed, the tank should be quite successful.

29 or 30 gallon All-Glass Aquarium ($50) glass top ($20) two small power head like a maxijet 600 A protein skimmer (can be built for this project) An airstone and air pump A small 36 watt + power compact fixture (27w "daylight", 9 watt "blue") (around $75) 50 watt heater ($15) hydrometer ($12) thermometer ($2) saltwater test kit (basic, $20 ) 5-10 lbs of good live rock (well cured, if possible) (varies) (diy rock will also do)-we will talk about this later. 10-15 lbs of sand (varies) (Try to get a small cup full of live sand from a fish store or from a saltwater enthusiast.) small light timer ($4)
 * __SUPPLIES:__**

All live rock needs to be cured, even if it is called cured. There is always die off on rock when shipped.

Sand from someone else's tank needs to be little more than a cup. The remainder can come from the pet shop.

Add water. Test your tank with freshwater first. Look for leaks if it is used. Then, mix your saltwater. This should be done a day before adding to your tank. Saltwater needs to age one day before being added to a tank. If there are no animals in there it will not hurt anything. Many pet shops now sell pre-mixed salt water made with Reverse-Osmosis fresh water. If you have a nearby pet shop that offers this service, take advantage of it. If not, you'll need to mix your own salt water. If your tapwater is full of phosphates, nitrates or heavy metals it will need to be filtered with either an R/O unit or a DI filter before it can be used in the tank. Remember not to fill the tank all the way at this point, as the rock and sand will displace a considerable volume of water. Add your heater and bring the tank temperature to around 78 degrees before progressing any further.

Add rock. Rockscaping is fairly straightforward in a 30 gallon tank. Play with the rock to position it in an interesting way to your eye. Make sure it is stable. Some people pile rock against the back wall. Others make an island in the center. Some make a "valley." Your rock sizes will vary quite a bit, so choose wisely and make sure it does not fall over easily.

Add sand. Put your sand into a plastic sandwich bag (sealed). Holding the bag under water near the bottom of the tank, cut off a corner of the bag and slowly pour out the sand. This will prevent the worst of the tank clouding that can happen when using sand. Try to leave as much of the sand uncovered by the rock as possible.

Open the skimmer "full throttle" and let it run. Depending on how cured your rock is, you will need to let it sit in your tank on it's own for some time. If you don't have access to test kits to monitor the condition of your water, you should play it safe and leave your tank empty for about a month. During this period you should leave the lights off and the skimmer on(if you have a skimmer). When the rock has fully cured, the first additions to your tank should be various scavengers and algae eaters, namely hermit crabs and astrea or turbo snails. Approximately 1 turbo snail, 3 astrea snails and 6 blue leg hermits should do a good job of keeping the tank algae free. Also at this point you should begin turning on your lights -- a photoperiod of 10-12 hours a day is good, and a cheap appliance timer can automate the process for only a few dollars. Before adding other creatures it's a good idea to perform a heavy water change at this point, especially if your rock experienced a lot of die off. Replace about 50% of the tank water with new salt water. Good corals for this setup include mushrooms, leathers and most soft corals. Certain hard corals can also be kept, although you should only consider relatively low-light species. A cleaner shrimp or one very small fish can round out the tank. A clownfish can be kept easily in this tank. They will host in several species of coral. They do not need to be with an anemone which can be hard to keep for a beginner. Anemones sting other invertebrates and wander too. They cause problems in tanks with corals. Add your inhabitants slowly, and be sure not to overstock. Maintenance for this tank will be surprisingly simple. Top off evaporation with fresh water. Clean and empty the skimmers collection cup on a regular basis. Most importantly, do a 5 gallon water change once per week. The frequent water changes eliminate the need for trace element additions, kalkwasser additions and heavy skimming. That's it. For around $300 or so you can set up a nano reef that will thrive with only 10 minutes of maintenance a week. The main hurdle to overcome will be the temptation to overstock it; otherwise, it should be a dream to maintain. 